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Cars for sale / 1974 1/2 MGB
« Last post by amgba on Yesterday at 05:23:45 PM »
1974 1/2 MGB. New carpet, valve cover, air cleaners, master cylinder, electronic points. Heads re-done, valves changed and tuned by John at University Motors. Asking $15,500. No rust. 574-295-7771.
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Cars for sale / MGB Project Cars
« Last post by amgba on August 28, 2017, 07:19:02 PM »
MGB Project. '73 driver, good mechanical condition, restoration started, many new parts to complete. '78 complete car with good title, has OD transmission. '82, parts car. All for $3500. Contact Wayne at wayne.shourds@yahoo.com . TX

More MGs and MG items for sale on the American MGB Association website at www.mgclub.org/mgclass.htm
3
Wanted / Items For 1971 Firebird
« Last post by amgba on August 24, 2017, 03:35:05 PM »
For 1971 Firebird. Good used Formula hood. 2 exhaust manifolds, for 400 motor. Any blue interior parts. Midwest area would be best on large items. Phone: 712-303-0637. IA
4
Upkeep and Performance Hints / Re: Collar and Hub Wear
« Last post by JohnTwist on August 15, 2017, 10:03:39 PM »
A:   The wear on the collar is normal -- that is, where it meets the rear hub oil seal.  You can polish the collar with very fine sandpaper or cloth.  Be sure to lubricate the new seal with a lot of grease when reassembling.  Otherwise it will run dry for a while. 
The wear you're concerned about on the tapered section of the cone and on the inner hub are of zero concern.  These two surfaces aremated very tightly when that rear 1 5/16" nut is tight.  Nothing turns or wobbles on those surfaces. 
Hope this helps!
John Twist
SAFETY FAST!
5
Upkeep and Performance Hints / Collar and Hub Wear
« Last post by september2017 on August 15, 2017, 09:47:48 PM »
Q:   John Twist - Congratulations on your retirement. I want to thank you for your informative videos. I purchased my 1977 MGB a year ago. I live in Madison, Mississippi. Their is only a handful of MGB's in this area. I really can't find any shops here that work on them. Can you please take a look at the pictures and let me know if this is normal wear on the collar and hub? The oil seal was leaking and upon taking it apart, I found some wear on the parts. Thanks again and have a great day.

Jeffrey Deris
6
Engine Related Items / Re: Crank Pulley Lock Tab Washer
« Last post by JohnTwist on August 15, 2017, 09:57:55 PM »
A:    I understand why you're in this quandary.   Often someone will tell me, "I put it together the way it came apart."  That is a good rule to follow -- as long as the previous mechanic put it together correctly.  You have a picture of two different parts here.  The one on the left is the locktab from the camshaft; the one on the right is for the front crankshaft pulley.   But "WAIT" you say -- "How can the one on the right lock if there's no tab?"

Good question.

Examine the front crank pulley.  You'll find a divot, a machined relief opposite the keyway.  Once you fit the locktab under the front crank bolt (and it's easy to get it misplaced because of the diameters), use a punch and drive the locktab into that relief.  Then, use you long screwdriver or chisel to fold the locktab over the nut on one of the available faces (obviously not the same one you just drove into the pulley).  I usually use some blue Locktite in this application.

Further questions might be:  How does one get this bolt tight?  An air ratchet gun is the best.  If that's not available, use a breaker bar with your 1 5/16" socket, tighten the nut until the engine begins to turn.  Now you can have your associate sit in the driver's seat and apply the brakes with the gearbox in reverse, but one can only get the engine so tight.  So get it as tight as you can and smack the breaker bar with a hammer (the same technique as used with the air ratchet). 
The next question is:  How does one get this bolt loose?  Again, use that breaker bar and a 1 5/16" socket.  Place the breaker bar on the LEFT inner fender (USA driver's side), port side, near side.  You hold the breaker bar and your associate hits the starter (have the coil disconnected!).  The bolt will turn out effortlessly.  For Christ's sake do NOT put the breaker bar on the right side, starboard side, off side or you'll kill yourself. 

Hope this helps!
John Twist
7
Engine Related Items / Crank Pulley Lock Tab Washer
« Last post by september2017 on August 15, 2017, 09:40:10 PM »
Q:   My name is Doug Duncan and I am a longtime British car owner.  Have enjoyed watching your videos on YouTube for some time.  Used to live in California but now retired and living in Bretagne in western France.

My wife and I have owned a '68 MGB-GT since 1969 which I am restoring at the moment.  The first MG I restored was a 1960 MGA in the 70's.  Still have a 1964 Land Rover 88 series IIa station wagon (restored in the 80's), which was the first car we bought after we were married in 1968. Also have a 61 Morris Minor Traveller I restored in the  80's, just like another one I had when I was in college.  Restored a 1965 Jaguar Mk II in the 90's also.  As you can see I have a bad case of the disease.

The reason I am writing is to get your confirmation of a parts disagreement I am having with Moss in England.  The disagreement is over the front crank pulley lock tab washer they supplied for my '68 GT. The photo below shows the original that came off the car on the left and the replacement they shipped on the right.  I tried to explain to them that the washer they are selling has no tab to lock into the keyway on the pulley so in effect the washer they supply acts as a plain washer.  The notch in the washer is useless as there is no key for it to slide over. They tell me that they have sold this washer for years and never had a complaint. I believe the same one is sold in the U.S. by Moss. The one they shipped was rusty (as you know it rains a lot in the U.K.) as you can see and also has a little paint on it where I tried it thinking I was missing something.

Would appreciate your opinion on the subject. I realize you are busy and you have mentioned you don't check emails a lot.

All the best and keep up the good work.

Doug Duncan
8
Engine Related Items / Re: Rocker Assembly Removal
« Last post by JohnTwist on August 15, 2017, 10:01:28 PM »
A:   When I remove the rocker assembly, I loosen the four 5/16" studs first, THEN the 3/8" head nuts.  I try not to turn the engine -- but if that's necessary, then remove the spark plugs.
When refitting, torque the 3/8" studs first, then the 5/16".  I'd use 55# on the 3/8" and about 20# on the 5/16".  Just to ensure a good job, retorque the entire cylinder head.  You'll have best luck by tightening the rocker assembly first - and then following the torque sequence laid out in the workshop manual.  It's a spiral starting from the center stud on the RH side, between the #2 and #3 spark plugs.  ONE AT A TIME -- loosen a nut -- oil the nut/stud -- then take it down to 55# -- then go to the next -- ONE AT A TIME. 
Then adjust the valves.  Use 0.015" prior to 1972 and 0.013". 1972 and later.

Hope this helps!

John Twist
SAFETY FAST!
9
Engine Related Items / Rocker Assembly Removal
« Last post by september2017 on August 15, 2017, 09:46:18 PM »
Q:   Can you remove the rocker assembly without loosening all the head studs?
Mike Olsen
10
Engine Related Items / Re: Cooling fluid loss
« Last post by Art on August 15, 2017, 10:08:11 PM »
A:   May well be, but if the car is still running cool and not overheating, the pump itself may not really be bad.
Front of the block could be a number of things,so you'll first have to trace the actual source. 

First question  It's dumb, but did you check if it's from the overflow tube?  I was troubleshooting a mysterious loss of coolant.  Car ran cool, but would lose about a half quart over a days' drive. After a while, we found the radiator cap to be the culprit.  Put a new cap on and no more loss. Also, the core of the radiator itself might be leaking, even spraying back on the block, where it puddles under when sitting.  The radiator can be repaired, re-cored or outright replaced fairly easily.  

If it's definitely from the engine, I'd start by removing the fan, belts and pulley on the pump to give you a clearer view of the area where you say the coolant appears to be coming from. Look at the pump shaft and see if it's the seal that's leaking.  It is, change the pump.  Maybe it's just the water pump gasket that's leaking.  If this is the case, it's as much labor to remove and replace the old pump as to put a new one, so, unless it was recently replaced, I'd strongly suggest replacing it. 

Other issues could be the thermostat housing, gasket, hoses at the connections to the engine/radiator or, more ominous issues could be a leaking head gasket or freeze-out plug (these are steel an can corrode and leak). We won't talk about any cracks as yet.
Check for the source first and then plan your next steps.  If it's something other than the pump or radiator that you find and have any questions, please feel free to contact me at any time.

Safety Fast!
Art Isaacs
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