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Recent Posts

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1
Upkeep and Performance Hints / Re: Gauge Problems
« Last post by september2018 on October 16, 2018, 09:41:25 PM »
This was posted in Dec. 2017, 10 months ago and has over 700 "reads".  Tells me instruments are a topic of interest.  I just got my ol' 1974 B back and have trouble with the gas gauge not registering, so I installed a new sending unit.  Simple, and the float in the old sender had gas in it. Thought I had solved the problem, but the gauge still wouldn't register.  Removing the new sending unit I found gas in the NEW plastic float. There is a small crack on the shoulder of the groove where it fits in the wire arm.  I manually operated the arm of the sending unit,  the new gauge registered no more than a half tank. Too much resistance in the wire between the gauge and the sending unit?  I will try a new connector.   Ordered a new brass float, but why doesn't the sending unit allow the new gauge to register full?  With about 6 gallons of gas it registers a quarter.  Now I am thinking it may have one of those new, larger tanks!  When I re-reinstall with the new float, I will fill it up and see how much it takes and what it registers, and measure the volts from the voltage stabilizer to see if it is putting out a full 10 Vts.  But the speedometer is wildly optimistic!  At 65 MPH per a GPS, the speedo registers 80 MPH!  The speedo is not connected to the voltage stabilizer.  Must I send the speedo out for calibration?
2
Cars for sale / 1977 MGB Roadster project
« Last post by amgba on October 14, 2018, 09:50:18 PM »
1977 MGB roadster project. body solid. No rust, runs and drives great, many new parts (front end, gas tank, radiator, brakes, pans, seats, clutch). Just needs to be completed, many extras (engine, trans, starter, alt,, wheels).  $2800 OBO. Des Moines IA. 515-238-8784.
3
General Discussion / Re: removing a wire wheel
« Last post by september2018 on October 01, 2018, 07:44:15 PM »
Yes, but I need to get them off first.
4
Wanted / MG Midget and MGB Hardtops.
« Last post by amgba on October 01, 2018, 12:48:22 PM »
MG Midget and MGB Hardtops.  Please send a photo of whatever hardtop you aren't using, any style and any condition. Please send info to gsabrams@msn.com or call Greg Abrams 805-405-3617.
5
General Discussion / Re: removing a wire wheel
« Last post by amgba on October 01, 2018, 11:58:08 AM »
Having had an MGB with balky wheels, I found the best bet was to clean the splines on the wheels and hubs both. I used a wire wheel in my drill motor, and light lubrication afterward. It helped if I kept the splines lightly lubed. No build up of grease to trap dust, dirt, and sand. Normal rotation of the tires, and inspection of the splines at that time, should be sufficient intervals for checking the splines, or once a year at the least.

Scott Stuchell
6
General Discussion / Re: removing a wire wheel
« Last post by amgba on September 30, 2018, 04:20:50 PM »
To choose your own login, logout of the one we gave your and sign up for a new account.

Suggest posting in our Facebook group at www.facebook.com/groups/americanmgbassociation but see below answer.

Frank
7
General Discussion / removing a wire wheel
« Last post by september2018 on September 27, 2018, 05:29:00 PM »
The rear wheels slide off their splined hubs easily; those at the front don't.

Do you have any thoughts or ideas re: how I might temporarily modify a puller so that it will work without damaging the wires, or do you have other ideas?  I'm certain that others have had to deal with this problem.

Thank you

BTW, where do I set up a username?
8
General Discussion / Re: brake fluid, past and present
« Last post by amgba on October 01, 2018, 12:02:44 PM »
The new is synthetic but I still use castrol dot 4 on all my Brit stuff
Steve Coe
9
General Discussion / Re: brake fluid, past and present
« Last post by amgba on September 30, 2018, 04:21:20 PM »
Suggest posting in our Facebook group at www.facebook.com/groups/americanmgbassociation
 
But also see next reply.

Frank
10
General Discussion / brake fluid, past and present
« Last post by september2018 on September 28, 2018, 11:54:37 AM »
I recall that in ages past one could get into serious trouble if using the wrong brake fluid.  Seals would dissolve and brakes and the clutch would fail.  The name Girling comes to mind as the approved fluid to use.

Has the situation changed within the past 30+ years?  Assuming new piston seals, what special requirements are there for brake fluid?

Thanks
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